Mexico City– 9 million people and one of the largest cities in the world– how do you narrow down where to eat when you want to eat every single place? Ask a local.
Our guide was David Alvarado, great guy, great photographer, Mezcal expert, importer/exporter, and former war photographer and public relations manager for the US Army (really) David is pretty much as fine a guide as you’re gonna get.
He’s also a major foodie and will unabashedly report that he’s stopping for a Häagen-Dazs and maybe a pack of ramen on the way home from a multi-course dinner.
So, this is the dude you want telling you where to eat.
Here’s where:
For a true DF taco experience
Maizajo
If you went to only one place in Mexico City, you might want to go here, for the churned-out-by-the-moment handmade tortillas, the just-about-anything-you-want taco selections, the mezcal, the natural wine, and the super cool urban taco stand vibe that’s a front for an elegant dining room upstairs– if you want that. I’d recommend starting downstairs for a few tacos– do as everyone else does and lean on the standing room only taco bar–then head upstairs for the prettiest desserts and a mezcal or many.
For the prettiest dining room
Botanico
This beautiful space is tucked into a garden that’s practically a forest, it’s so lush. The menu is made up of elevated takes on favorites that tourists love— grilled shrimp, tostadas, burgers, pastas (it has a Michelin star but it’s not stuffy). I’d go here for a beautiful drink and an elegant small plate– the room alone is worth a stop.
For the best meal we ate (IMO)
Voraz
When traveling, I love a restaurant that has you contemplating when you’ll next return– and whether you should book a table now. This Northern Mexican menu is served in a former mechanic shop (it’s way prettier than what that sounds like) calls itself a gastro-cantina which sounds about right. The food is the center-point of this just-hip-enough-to-dress-up-a-little (but not too much) spot, where dishes are meaty, cheesy, so so so inventive, and seriously like nothing else I’ve ever had, anywhere. I dream of their pitch-perfect tuna tostada and a quesadilla served with a side of bone marrow.
For the coolest dive(ish) bar
Canenea
When traveling, you’re hopefully looking for something you can’t get at home, and not for familiarity. This dive (well, more hipster than dive, but it’s channeling demure, mindful dive pretty well) serves hearty Tijuana/ Sonora style bar food that’s worth a trip alone, but stay for the drinking, the pool tables, the party vibe, and the cute crowds. I wish I had this down the street– but this is why god makes airplanes. Get a Sonora hot dog for a couple of bucks or the “Car Wash” sandwich– you gotta go to know.
For a can’t-miss taco chain (with al pastor)
Tacos La Chula Revolución
For that place to go when you’re hangry, just keep an eye out for the mammoth al pastor spinning out front and the friendly, inviting red and white signage. These are peppered all over the city, are open 24 hours– (24 hour tacos!) They’re also packed at all hours of the day and for good reason. You could close your eyes and point at any menu item and be happy– everything runs a couple of dollars, but my heart belongs to the al pastor.
For a street food mercado
Mercado de Antojitos Mexicanos Juanita (no website or Insta so you know it’s legit)
On your way to the Frieda Kahlo Museum, stop here for the-way-the-locals eat street/ market food. David said they had some of the best pozole in the city, but they were sadly closed when we visited. Go, and report back.
For Indian/ Mexican/ African (yes, you want it)
Masala y Maiz
When we first saw this come up on Yelp, we thought we wound’t want it. We were wrong. This place has some of the most inventive food I’ve had anywhere in recent memory, and If I could, I would eat through the entire menu. I may go back and do just that. The whole place is also a social justice project– check out the server’s uniforms, the menu literature, and press about this forward-thinking restaurant that would likely not exist elsewhere– it’s a singular place. Get the shrimp. Just get it. They somehow taste like Snickers Bars. (I know.)
For Goat Birria
El Hidalguense (website link broken)
Sean got up one morning and and went for goat birria— I didn’t go, because I don’t get up in the morning. But! He was nice enough to bring me a clamshell of treats from this place that specializes in goat birria. That’s all I can tell you about it except that I practically chewed through the styrofoam. You’d better not sleep in and just go and see for yourself.